What sticks with me about places like Kramatorsk is that the rail line turns into a kind of vote. Not in speeches, not in hashtags. In tickets bought, bags packed, kids half asleep on bunks, people deciding whether to go back anyway. That tells you more about a country than another summit photo. I don't buy the lazy Western take that Ukrainians are just pawns on a map. A city where trains still run, and people still choose to return, is showing grit. We should back that, and stop acting like fatigue in Washington is some wise form of realism.